The country's second city, cool in climate with a neoclassical historic center, that everyone calls Xela. It's the base for climbing Santa María, soaking in the Fuentes Georginas hot springs and exploring the K'iche' and Mam highlands. Famous for its Spanish schools, marimba music and Quetzalteca aguardiente. Less touristy than Antigua, more authentic, with a university pulse all its own.