Few volcanoes let you look fire in the eye. Villarrica does. Its snowy cone rises perfectly over the lake, and those who climb with crampons to the crater glimpse something almost no one sees in a lifetime: incandescent lava breathing inside the earth. By day it's a postcard; by night, when the red glow stains the smoke, it's unforgettable. At its feet, Pucón waits with hot springs for tired muscles.