The heart where Montevideo was born. The Ciudad Vieja is Plaza Independencia opening onto the avenue, the Mercado del Puerto with its smoking grills and the smell of barbecue, the majestic Teatro Solís, and art déco façades you won't see anywhere else in the region. You sit down to eat a chivito, hear candombe in the distance, and feel the calm, cultured pulse of the Uruguayan capital.