Much of El Salvador's recent history was written right here. Perquín was the FMLN headquarters during the civil war (1980–1992), and today the Museum of the Revolution keeps weapons, uniforms and even the spy plane captured from the army. What gives you chills are the tours: a former combatant guides you, recounting what he lived through. A few kilometers away, El Mozote remembers the 1981 massacre. A journey into memory, not just into scenery.